What makes Arunachal Pradesh an anthropologist’s paradise?

Arunachal Pradesh, as the name suggests, is the land of rising sun- the eastern most state of India.   Geographically the largest among the North Eastern states, it is the most unexplored and inhibited state of India with around 80% forest cover and the lowest population density in India. Gifted with wide topographical variations, vegetation and wild life, Arunachal also roots ancient civilization, traditional practices, folklore and rich culture and heritage. The very fact that Arunachal is still the most unexplored part of India makes it an anthropologist’s paradise.   

Historical Evaluation

There is very less written or recorded evidence available regarding the tribal history of Arunachal Pradesh as only few oral literature and historical ruins lying along Himalayan foothills are obtainable. Apart from these, a few references in history books of Assam refer to the relations between Arunachal Pradesh and Assam and influence implemented by ‘Ahom’ kings over a few tribal areas.

The People                                                                                                                

Ethnic association of Arunachal Pradesh has been described as Mongoloid, Indo-Mongoloid, Kiratas, Protomongoloid. Major tribes of the State are Monpa, Miji, Aka, Adi, Nishyi, Apatani, Tagin, Sherdukpen, Hill Miri, Digaru Mishmi, Idu Mishmi, Khamti, Nocte, Tangsa and Wancho. Most of these tribes are ethnically alike, having derived from one origin but due to geographical segregation certain distinctive characteristics in each tribe in language, dress and customs are apparent. The Monpas and Sherdukpens follow Buddhism. Other tribes like Adis, Akas, Nishyis, Apatanis, Mishmis, Tangsas worship sun and moon as their God, Donyi-Polo. The Noctes practice elementary form of Vaishnavism.

Languages

Linguistically, Arunachal Pradesh is the richest and most diverse regions in all of Asia, being home to at least 30 to 50 different languages in addition to innumerable dialects and sub dialects. Though the shifts in tribal identity and alignment over time have helped in the advancement and evolvement of the languages there are a lot of things to be studied and discovered.

Religion

The population of Arunachal Pradesh can be segregated into three groups according to their spiritual belief. The first group comprising the Monpas and Sherdukpens follow the ‘Lamaistic’ custom of Mahayana Buddhism. Membas and Khambas are culturally similar to them. The Khamptis and Singphos follow Hinayana Buddhism. The second group comprises Adis, Akas, Apatanis, Bangnis, Nishyis, Mishmis, Mijis, Thongsas etc., who traditionally worship the Sun and Moon God namely, Donyi-Polo and Abo-Tani. The third group comprises Noctes and Wanchos, and they practise elementary form of Vaishnavism.

The second group strictly follows Paganism. A few beliefs commonly shared by Pagans, includes pluralism, pantheism, polytheism, and it is generally believed that divinity is found in mind and nature.

The Nishyis are traditionally patriarchal and they practice polygamy.

Apatanis and the bizarre custom of Nose Plugs

Till 1970, the Apatani women used to follow the custom of wearing nose plugs and tattooing their face with horizontal lines from forehead to the tip of nose and five lines on their chin. According to beliefs this custom was instrumental in order to protect the women of the tribe. It appears that, Apatani women are considered to be the most beautiful among the Arunachal tribes, and hence their villages were constantly raided by neighbouring tribes, and the women were kidnapped, to deter which, the Apatani women started wearing these repulsive nose plugs and tattooing to make themselves less attractive.

Festivals

Festivals form an indispensable part of Socio-Cultural life of the people of Arunachal Pradesh. Each ethnic tribe of the Arunachal Pradesh celebrate number of festivals related to agriculture, religion and socio-cultural importance which give them plenty of occasions to relax, to enjoy, eat and drink. Agriculture being the basic means of livelihood the festivals having connection with agriculture, harvesting or planting is celebrated in larger scale, to pray for abundant harvest or to thank for the  either to thank the God for the luck. People in Arunachal celebrate one festival or other every month and hence it is also known to be the land of festivals.

Some of the important festivals celebrated by various tribes are:  Lossar (Monpas), Khan (Mijis), Nyokum (Nishyis), Boori Boot (Hill Miris), Dree (Apatanis), Si-Donyi (Togins), Mopin (Adis), Solung ( Adis ), Aran (Adis), Tamladu

(Taroon & Kamman Mishmis), Sangken (Khampti), Shapawng Yawng Manau Poi (Singpho), Reh (Idu Mishmis), Chalo-Loku (Noctes), Mol (Thongsas) etc.

Meghalaya attractions during monsoons

Few things on this earth live up to their name and Meghalaya is surely one of them. Meghalaya, ‘the abode of clouds’ truly defines every bit of it. And if there is one thing, we should not miss about this petite state of North East India, it is a trip during monsoons. The state of Meghalaya hosts a massive amount of rainfall from the month of May to September every year. Along with the rains it also brings the ambiguity and magic of monsoons. Undoubtedly, the occurrence of perpetual rainfall for about 5 months of the year crowns Meghalaya as one of top two rainiest places of the world. The commencement of the rain swiftly brings a unique change in the landscape, the air gets filled with mist, caves become more profound and numerous waterfalls come alive with their thunderous presence. Meghalaya becomes all the more enticing!

A few experiences you cannot afford to miss during your trip to Meghalaya during monsoons are:

The Barapani/Umiam Lake:

Situated at about 15Km ahead to of Shillong on the Guwahati-Shillong Road will offer you one of the most magical panoramic views of hills and subtle landscape reflected in the blistering waters of the lake. A mesmerizing evening at the lakeside hotel or resort, a boat ride in the calmest of places and some coffee in the evening enjoying the trademark rain would sum up a perfect monsoon day.

Walk to the Living Root Bridge in Mawlynnong and trek to the Umterming Waterfall:

Mawlynnong, the cleanest village in Asia is located 90 Kms away from Shillong. The road to the village is through some of the most beautiful countryside possible, starting with deep gorges and smooth plateaus ends up with beautiful broomstick cultivation fields.

The ‘Sky Watch’ a 85 feet high bamboo structure, built by the villagers will offer you a lovely view of the Bangladesh plains and a trek to the nearby Riwai Village, 2 Kms away will take you to Living Root Bridge. Another trek from Mawlynnong through Thiepsky village will take you to the elegant Umterming waterfall. This trek would again offer a vast view of Bangladesh plains.

Waterfalls and Umshiang Double-Decker Root Bridge in Cherrapunjee:

A trip to Cherapunjee (Sohra), particularly during the monsoons, is always rewarding as then, uncountable waterfalls come to life and offer their magnificence. Amazingly most of them have folklore or a myth connected to them. Some of the must visit waterfalls in Cherapunjee are Dain Thlen Falls, Noh Kalikai Falls, Nohsngithiang (Seven Sisters) falls.

Another appealing visit in Cherapunjee is a walk to the 'Umshiang Double Decker Root Bridge', located in the Nongriat Village is located at the bottom of the valley. The Decker Root bridge is built over the Umshiang Steam is very unique and is the only one of its kind.

Caving in Mawsmai, Village Life in Mawphlang and Mawsynram:

A visit to the Mawsmai Caves and Mawsmai Monoliths in Mawsmai Village will take you through some history of Meghalaya and add some adventure to your trip. The Sohra Syiem (Kingdom) was located at Mawsmai and the entrance to the village boasts of the only monolith in Meghalaya with a crown of stone. A little into the village is the entrance to the Mawsmai cave that will take you into a world of stalagmite and stalactite rock formation which resemble huge pile of chocolates.

‘Mawphlang’ village connects its roots to Khasi History and was named after Monoliths. Mawphlang is the site of one of the Khasi Hills sacred groves and in the village you can experience the lifestyle of the Khasi people and spend the night star gazing.

‘Mawsynram’ village, apparently the wettest place on earth will offer you one of the most stunning rain walks amidst mystical atmosphere.

Stay at Shillong for Wards Lake, Botanical Garden, Lum Khyriem Viewpoint and more

Shillong, known as the ‘Scotland of the East’, is the capital of Meghalaya. It still has a strong British influence as seen in its bungalows, cottages and many offices bear architecture similar to that in Britain.   

While in Shillong, a visit to the ‘Wards Lake’ (Nan-Polok) is a must. The artificial lake is beautified by a fine structured wooded bridge, flower landscaping, and a huge gathering of Geese and colourful collection of Fish. In a corner near the lake, the ‘Botanical Garden and Orchidarium’ is strategically located. This Orchidarium works on conserving ethnic varieties of Orchids typically found in Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh and the other North Eastern hill states and is a visual treat during the blooming season.

‘Lum Khyriem Viewpoint’ is the much celebrated viewpoint that offers you get a full 180 degrees panoramic view of Shillong. Apparently the Smit village, Madan Rting, Happy Valley, Nongthymmai, Laitumkhrah, Malki, Upper Shillong, Lumdienggiri, Mawlai and the stretch upto Mawiong and Umiam is clearly visible from the point and the ambience is clear and freshening.

‘Shillong Peak or View Point’ is located at a hill top about 20 Kms from Shillong, is a very famous and ideal Picnic spot and offers a spectacular view of the city and the Eastern Himalayan Ranges.  The peak is the perfect place to spend a lazy monsoon afternoon and enjoy the rain.

Ward's Lake, Shillong Photo: Ujjal Borah

Umiam lake Photo:Ujjal Borah

A Tale of one Baby and Three Caretakers – All in the middle of a Jungle!

Such is the irony of nature! So different are wild animals from human beings. They live in the wild, untamed, so much in-sync with their habitat – so unlike humans - and yet they are also the prisoners of emotion, like us!

Today, be it because of human interference or natural calamities, the instances of both the living beings’ paths criss-crossing - and chances of conflicts, thereby - have increased. As human populations expand and natural habitats shrink, people and animals are increasingly coming into conflict over living space and food.

And it’s not that the instances of conflict of interest only remains to be found just between human beings and animals - what we also encounter are animal-animal conflicts, for food, habitat, engaged in a battle for survival!

I remember one incident that took place during my visit to Kaziranga National Park that etched before me an instance proving how close we are, with each other, already! 

A world heritage site, Kaziranga is the home to two- third of the world's great one horned rhinoceroses, tigers, elephants, wild water buffaloes, swamp deer, gaur, sambar, hog deer, wild boar and an wide array of birds- extensively covered by tall elephant grass, swamp and dense tropical forests; and interwoven by four major rivers, including the Brahmaputra. The 430 square- km. spread park includes numerous small water bodies too. My encounter with one of the nature's prevailing truth happens to include one such small water body. 

I remember to have begun the day with an adventure- filled gypsy safari! After the safari, we headed to the Agoratoli range of the park that apparently is the most populated by elephants. With the help of our guide I was able to spot numerous monkeys, deer, various birds of known and unknown kinds, and water buffaloes. Such was the resplendent beauty of the nature and it vividness that we remained engrossed in every new – small or big – activities happening around us. We were perched on top of the elephant’s back, safely!

Then suddenly the guide pointed out some movements near a swamp. What I saw there certainly made my heart skip a beat!

I saw an injured buffalo calf near a small waterhole. The calf probably had been attacked by a predator. Another buffalo, perhaps the mother of the calf, was guarding it. While we were trying to figure out what had happened there, I saw a curious elephant approaching the spot - perhaps to inspect the scene. But the mother charged at it! A long, gripping confrontation between the two ensued. It took about 10 minutes. The calf remained as it is. Still! But not unattended though!

While the calf’s mother and the elephant were busy chasing each other, a rhino appeared on the spot and spent a moment with the motion-less calf. It then charged at the elephant and chased it away. But then, strangely, when the mother buffalo tried to go near the baby, the rhino chased away the mother too. Then, it went near the baby and snuffed it for some time. And went away!

As I kept staring towards the spot, the mother buffalo reappeared, walked near the injured baby - only to realize that the calf has died. She sniffed the baby, pushed it with her head. And when it remained unmoved, she slowly walked away!

It was our, human beings - the smart but silent watchers’ - turn to make a move, then! We too turned, and perhaps trudged to an extent, away from the spot... and returned to the safety and solace of our guest house! All that lingered was the affection in display for a helpless, little ‘un - from beings of different races, sizes and types – including us, human beings. 

For once, again, human beings and animals became one! And it was our emotion that prevailed. 

By Partha Datta

(Wildlife enthusiast and Co- founder- Travel Country Roads)